Havasupai is one every adventure bloggers, Instagram models and backpackers bucket list. I am beyond grateful that I was able to explore this magnificent oasis deep in the Grand Canyon twice in 2018. I am sharing with you some tips and advice on how to make the most out of this experience!
10) Spend money on a legit backpacking pack – seriously.
I was riding the Hot Mess Express all the way through the end of April after getting back from an expensive trip to Spain and not working for a month. I was pinching pennies, so I didn’t think I needed to spend $200 on a backpack. After all, the pack I took to Spain seemed to do the job and it was pretty easy to carry, right? Well, three hours and 10 miles later, I thought my back was going to give out. Knowing I had to schlep that pack back out of the canyon was really scary, but I did it. When I went back six months later, I made sure to go to REI and get fitted for the right kind of pack. It felt significantly so much better and had space for a water bladder and pockets galore!
Just like I do not advise buying a pair of cheap running shoes, the same goes for a backpacking pack. Spend the money. Your shoulders and back will be very grateful.
9) Go with a friend or a group that you trust
Havasupai is in the middle of the Grand Canyon. You will not have cell phone service. The good thing is that it’s pretty hard to get lost on the hike in/out, and there’s not too many places you can go where people won’t cross your path. That’s if you stay on the trails and don’t wander off. But, still, go with people you know.
My first trip to Havasupai would have been in October 2017 but my intuition told me to give up the permit. I didn’t feel safe with the group I was supposed to go with. Giving up the permit felt horrible, especially when I realized that Havasupai permits only become available one day out of the year (Feb 1). They're usually gone within seconds and people wait years for the opportunity.
However, when Havasupai permit reservations opened for 2018, I miraculously secured two permits each for two separate trips. I went to Havasupai on my own terms with friends I knew and trusted!
8) Make friends – they may know something that you don’t!
Go with friends, but still be open to meeting new people. Chances are that they may know something that you don’t!
When I went to Havasuapi in April 2018 I met a few guys down by the rope swing next to Mooney. They were from southern California (Laguna Beach) and they knew a lot about Havasuapi because this was their second trip. They told me about a hidden quartz cave behind Havasu Falls and took me to the location. It was crazy amazing! Quartz all over! I wouldn’t have known had I not met these gentlemen. They also ended up giving us the rest of their hydration tablets before they hiked out the following morning. We connected over social media and remained friends. (I also went back to the quartz cave in October when I went to Havasupai the second time).
7) FOOOOOOD
A contract I worked for a dog bakery in 2017 left me with hundreds of small sealable 3x3 in plastic bags. I ended up using them for food rations. For example, instead of taking an entire jar of Nutella (which I did the second trip because what’s life without chocolate and hazelnuts?), I spooned out 2-3 scoops into a plastic bag and zipped it close. I made about 6-8 of these little baggies which I poked a small hole in with my teeth and squeezed out into a wrap (or into my mouth by itself because I'm a savage with Nutella). I did the same with peanut butter too. I suggest using these bags because they are small and easy to store.
As for meals, I took with me the traditional freeze-dried backpacking foods you can buy at your local REI, as well as tuna packets, waffles, energy gels and chews. Havasupai has clean drinking water at the camp site, so you don’t have to worry about that. If in case you’re low on food, there is a market in the village (about 2 miles from the campsites) but everything is super expensive and not packaged for backpacking. That jar of Nutella got especially annoying when I had to store it in my pack for the trek back. You will find that every ounce an item weighs and inch it takes up makes a difference when backpacking.
6) Astrophotography at Havasupai
Alright guys, I’m going to be real with you. I’m not the most savvy when it comes to communicating astrophotography, camera settings or lenses. I have kit lenses and entry level DSLR cameras – a Nikon D3200 and a Canon t6. It's not that I don't want to share my tips - it's that I literally have no clue what I'm doing! I just mess around with my camera's ISO, F-stop and exposure length until I get it right.
On the first trip, I busted my Canon 18-55 mm kit lens right before the hike in. I had both cameras with me - thank da lorddddd - and brought my Nikon instead. This worked out because my remote was only compatible with that camera. I had the intention of taking milky way photos over Havasu Falls but realized that my lens wasn’t quite wide enough. The rock walls are very high and they will take up a lot of space in your frame. I was still able to capture the milky way but not the way I originally imagined.
In April, the Milky Way rose pretty early in the morning, like 3 am, so we woke up very early to capture it over Havasu. At that hour, the falls were pretty bare except for the lights of hikers getting a head start on the 10 mile trek back to the trailhead. There were a few other astrophotographer’s out but they didn’t stay for long. I continued shooting until the sun started to rise. Then I went down to Havasu Falls and recorded a timelapse. I had the entire waterfall to myself!
In October, I had my Canon with me and a compatible remote. The moon was pretty full and it was late in the season. Being that it was mid-october, I didn’t think I was going to be able to capture the Milky Way but I did get it in a few faint shots. I had a lot of fun sitting by Mooney, eating dinner and then taking night photos with my friend by the camp sites. I set up my camera to take a time-lapse next to our tent while we slept. I stopped it when we woke up the next morning to begin the hike out.
5) Eat Dinner Next to Mooney
If there is one thing you need to do at Havasupai, it’s sitting next to majestic Mooney Falls while eating a freeze-dried delicassen of your choice. This waterfall is magical and awe-inspiring. I recommend getting as close as you feel comfortable and taking in the incredible view.
On our last night, Holly and I enjoyed watching the day fade to night while Mooney flowed right in front of us. Mooney was especially powerful (and brown) on this trip due to the rains that occurred two days prior.
You most likely won’t hit up Mooney before hiking out (it’s alllll the way in the back of the camp sites), so it’s best to have a dinner date and say your farewells the night before. I fought back tears saying goodbye to Mooney because I didn’t know when/if I’d see the beautiful waterfall again. However, I have so many great memories and photos to look back on.
4) Hydration and Electrolyte Supplements
Guys, this is the GRAND CANYON. IT’S HOT AS BALLS.
As if the 10 mile trek to Havasupai carrying your 20lb pack isn’t exhausting enough, your stay is followed by 2-3 days of intense hikes and sun exposure. The hike out can be especially brutal by this point. In fact, some hikers are so exhausted that they won’t even do the hike. They opt for a helicopter or some do the hike out and pay for a mule to carry their gear. (I am proud to say that I hiked/struggled my pack in and out on both visits).
Regardless, you’re going to need hydration and electrolyte supplements to get you through the hike out. The last few miles is directly in the sun and with lots of switchbacks. You’re going to be sweaty and depleted at this point – especially if you left the campsites any later than 5 am.
On my first trip, the people we met left us a few packets of their electrolyte powder/tablets. I can’t remember the name of it but it was KEY for getting up those switchbacks.
On the second trip, I had tons of Nuun tablets from a marathon I ran the week earlier. We had separate water bottles with us (aside from our camelbaks/hydration packs) that we filled with water before leaving the campsite and dropped an electrolyte tab into.
3) Leave Early
This is SO important because this hike is really tough and there is no shade. On the first hike, we left at 6 am and got to the campsites by 10:30 am. The last couple of miles from the village to the waterfalls had soft sand and zero shade. I think 6 am is the earliest you can hike out from the trailhead.
On the hike out, the earlier you leave – the better. On the first trip, we hiked out at 4 am and got up to the trailhead before 8 am. We beat the sun too!
On the second trip, we left camp around 6 am and made a few stops on the way back. We got caught in the sun for the last 4 or so miles. It was pretty brutal, especially when we got to the switchbacks. But we did it!
I feel like those that have hiked in and out of Havasupai with all their gear deserve a patch or something. (I even contemplated putting it on my resume because it was such a feat!😉)
2) Board Your Dog at Cinder Hills Kennels in Flagstaff!
I do not recommend bringing your dog to Havasupai. Although dogs have made it there (as seen on Instagram), I do not suggest it, unless it’s a service animal and healthy enough to make the trek. I was traveling with Juno because it was cheaper for me to board her in Flagstaff for 3 nights than to board her for a week in LA. (I was roadtripping in Utah for 3 days before the first trip to Havasupai).
I am very nervous when it comes to boarding Juno – she’s my life and we are inseparable. But I felt confident and comfortable leaving her at Cinder Hills Kennels. They are located in a beautiful area where the dogs are able to go on hikes and play outside. I paid a little extra for Juno to go on a special hike with one of their staff members. They posted photos of her, which really warmed my heart to see!
Their rates are affordable and they offer lots of pampering options like treats, hikes and grooming. Juno had a really great time there. I highly recommend them.
1) Bring a Jumper Cable
My car battery died at the trailhead parking lot the night before my first hike to Havasupai. It was my fault. Here's how it happened:
The car was off and it was dark out. I still needed to pack. In an effort to conserve gas and not turn on the car, I opened and closed the door 100 times to trigger on the lights. By the time I laid down to get a couple hours of sleep, I noticed my phone was on 20%. I turned on the car battery to charge it for 5 minutes and then the car just turned off. I didn’t want to wake up my friend, so I decided to wait until morning to address the issue.
The car battery died, which sucked, but what really sucked was that the front windows were down. We couldn’t find anyone with jumper cables and the sun was quickly rising over the canyon walls. I decided to tape black trash bags over the windows and hoped it looked like someone was in there sleeping. We hid our valuables and locked the car (which could have easily been unlocked if someone realized the window was down). We asked people along the hike if they had cables and hoped to secure some by the hike out. We were unsuccessful.
On the hike out we started asking people again. We found a group of college guys that said they had cables in their car and we met them at the trailhead. They had cables but the only issue was that they were too short. Cars were parked on both sides of my car. Unfortunately, the cables didn’t reach far enough to get under my hood. Tired, sore, disappointed and overheating, we continued desperately asking everyone who passed by. Thankfully, a gentleman in a huge truck had cables long enough to reach my car and the battery was brought back to life! I was very grateful because the trailhead is like 100 miles from the closest town. There is also no cell phone service at the trailhead, so getting AAA to come out to replace a battery or change a tire is a challenge.
I was happy to see that no one entered my car. Everything was untouched. The trash bag windows didn’t stay taped, but it was better than nothing. I knew the second time going back to be mindful of using the car battery with the engine turned off. I wish I could say I took jumper cables. The truth is I still need to pick some up – writing this is a nice reminder!
Are you going to Havasupai this year? Do you have plans to go in the future? Leave me a comment!
Also, allllll of my photos are available for purchase! So, if you see something you like on this blog, or any of my Flickr albums, please reach out to me at TaliaLandman@gmail.com to place a print order!
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